Category Archives: Food

The garden of good and evil

I am sorry to report that one of my tater tots has died. I don’t know what caused the problem, but it doesn’t look like the dreaded late blight (especially since the one right next to it is doing fine). It all started after a heavy rain which flattened the plant. Some of the stalks and leaves never popped up again and turned yellow. Because this is an Experimental Potato Station, I did nothing but observe this time around — I seriously wasn’t expecting to get anything edible out of the plants this year.

I’m conducting cruel experiments on potato plants partly for sentimental reasons. This spring it occurred to me that the only person who never tried to dissuade me from growing vegetables was my grandmother. Where other people would respond to my “let’s grow [something]!” by peppering me with doubts (“You can’t grow [something]! It’s too hard! The soil’s not right!”), my grandmother would just shrug and say “OK, let’s.” I still have fond memories of the scabby and inedible marble-sized potatoes I dug up one fall from the yard under her watchful eye. Gee, growing stuff is really hard.

Next year, I hope to do better — in an environment without deadly fungus lurking. The New York Times has a new report on the ramifications of this year’s outbreak in the Northeast. In addition, Paterson has moved to have 17 counties declared “agricultural disaster areas” not just due to the late blight, but due to the crappy summer weather in general. Organic farmers are really in trouble: playing by the rules, they can’t use any effective fungicides. Growing stuff organically — it’s hard.

I have to wonder if, for a lot of middle-class Americans (even those with some gardening experience), the expectation of “getting back to the land” and supporting one’s family with backyard gardening or even small farming might be as — dare I say — childish as my potato experiment? If farming was easy, why are so many farms failing? Farms do not exist in a self-sufficient vacuum, as any farmer can tell you. It’s all part of an economic and social web that is and has always been directed by people way more powerful than you. During the 1940s, my grandfather owned one of the largest poultry farms in western Pennsylvania, and all it took was one or two years of disease to wipe him out completely. (Urban Buffalo chicken farmers, be warned!) He moved back to Utica, bitter about the tainted feed he suspected was the cause, and especially about the people who ran the feed supply chain.

Backyard gardening alone cannot feed a family efficiently (or without a great deal of risk — see: the current outbreak of late blight, or just read your history books about the Irish famine since oppressed Irish farmers were forced to essentially “backyard-garden” with potatoes.) If you squint at it just the right way, the suburbanization of former farmland looks an awful lot like the land-enclosure process in old Ireland. Absentee landlords (developers) wrung profit from the land and subdivided it into tiny parcels for exorbitant rents (mortgages), and politicians and other powerful interests eventually forced the Irish to potato-garden (tomato-garden) on those little plots for subsistence. How far we’ve come since the bad old days, huh?

But in a way, agriculture itself created this situation. Agriculture can only feed people most efficiently when it is large-scale (up to a point). And large-scale agriculture requires specialization of social roles, i.e., modern complex society. And when you have specialized roles, you have differing levels of social status. We’re all still wrestling with the ramifications of that every day. Agriculture pretty much created civilization as we know it — including nearly all of its successes and injustices.

People today who dream about self-sufficient backyard farming are also maybe dreaming about the kind of personal independence, peaceful habit and social egalitarianism that really only exists in hunter-gatherer societies. So, if that’s what we really want, better start looking for local nut and berry patches, even to go along with our tomato gardens. Consider how much of them it takes to make one meal, and how far you will have to travel from your home (i.e., spend energy) to gather them. Now you understand why hunter-gatherers tend not to have permanent villages — much less walkable ones. Are we sure we want to pay the real price for peace, independence and egalitarianism?

Sad to say, if this summer’s blight is as bad as is being reported, more than a few marginal farmers are going to either abandon organic practices, or go out of business altogether. I wonder how that will affect the back-to-the-land narrative in certain middle class circles. I also marvel at how many aspiring middle-class small farmers don’t seem to be very up on the political struggles of today’s farmers, except in a very general “down with evil Monsanto” way.

Just remember: for two weeks in July at least, blackberries are free.

Maple madness

Just about the only thing that’s not tapped out in New York State is its maple syrup potential. Despite the state being filled with saps, we import four times as much maple product as we produce. Our own peripatetic Chuck Schumer wants to change all that with the Maple Tapping Access Program (Maple TAP, get it? huh?) which would apparently allow us to compete with Quebec, the “OPEC of maple syrup,” and its Citadelle conglomerate. Or, become Citadelle. Something like that.

I would be in support of this initiative if it brings down the exorbitant price of maple candy, which is the surest way for someone to entice me to do whatever they want.

Come on, New York! Let’s kick Vermont’s ass on this one. All they have is better marketing. We have way more trees.

Ideas for your next Christmas party

Ridiculous Food Society of Upstate New York is not your average foodie blog. It’s “a humorous look at the food and culture of Upstate New York” but even though the cuisine of our region revolves around meat, I’m pretty sure most of these recipes are not authentic. I’m not sure what’s deadlier, the cholesterol count or the food photography, but here’s a random quote:

I will have to say a shot of this stuff tastes pretty much how you would expect. It tastes like bacon, burning alcoholic bacon. The bacon flavor was very pronounced. The vodka had truly absorbed much of the essence of cooked bacon.

If Candied Spam sounds sort of interesting to you, this may be your kitchen companion.

Sign of the times

Just when you thought you couldn’t cope with any more upheavals, Wegmans unveils its new logo.

It looks surprisingly, but pleasingly, 1930s retro (as opposed to the stale ’70s retro they’ve had forever)… and not only that, but it reminds me a little bit of the cursive of Stewart’s Shops.

We don’t have any Stewart’s here in Central New York — except for one rogue western outpost around Oswego — and that’s too bad, because I don’t think anyone does the deluxe convenience store better than they do. I became quite a fan of theirs back when I used to visit my sister in the Albany area (and they also sell excellent firewood). Here’s a recent article about how deluxe groceries are starting to look at opening smaller stores, sort of a “bodega” model. I wonder if Wegmans will ever do the same. It might remove the psychological fatigue you feel as you contemplate fighting crowds through a food warehouse, even at the beloved Weggies.


CNY/Finger Lakes food gets a very tasty article in today’s New York Times. Salt potatoes, Doug’s Fish Fry, spiedies, Baker’s Chicken Coop and more.

I’m not sure I’ll get to the Fair at all this year to enjoy any of this fab food, but I have to say the opening fireworks (I have a great view of them from my window) were the best I’d seen in years. Not Harborfest quality exactly, but it was a pretty good show.